Soul Of America Blog features special topics such as Black Hollywood, Black Museums, Black Innkeepers, Black Spas, Family Travel, Sports Travel, and Traveling. It also covers Transportation topics such as High-Speed Rail, Regional Rail, Rapid Transit in North America, modern airplanes, and other modes.

Florida Keys

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Key West Harbor in the morning

Rent a charter boat or cruise at Key West Harbor; credit Amber Kipp

Kicking It In The Florida Keys

Florida Keys are known for letting loose in subtropical sunshine, hanging out under a sky that stretches wider than the horizon, or relaxing on beaches where soft waves sometimes reveal small creatures like sand crabs. Turquoise color water and sea grass moving back and forth to the rhythm of the shallow ocean is all very inviting to swimmers, snorkelers, paddle boarders and kayakers. The keys are also a Mecca for fun fast food and crazy drink concoctions as well as a destination for elegant fine dinning. This 7-mile stretch of land at the bottom tip of Florida, dividing the Atlantic Ocean from the Gulf of Mexico, cordially welcomes beachcombers, novelists, bloggers, entrepreneurs and anyone with a dream to dance with life or vacation at their own pace, so long as that pace is unhurried and stress free. That is why by day, Key West pampers visitors and residents with a “don’t worry be happy” mantra and by night it becomes the kingdom of “let’s all party.”

Bars in Key West

Bars in Key West

People often ask, “Is visiting the Florida Keys expensive?” Hotel and airline bookings to Key West, Islamorada or Miami during mid-week offer amazing opportunities for visitors. Restaurant and bars prices are typical of mid size cities. Most bars, restaurants and hotels are wallet friendly.

Slightly higher in summer. Make sure to catch early happy hour pricing specials-Wow! Perhaps what’s most appealing about the keys to a lot of folks is Key West itself. This getaway spot is home to truly eclectic groups of people, wonderfully fresh and over the top tasting seafood, drinks in quirky Duval Street bars. Also, dishes that make you think you’re dining on heaven’s front porch are served to packed tables daily at the Conch Republic Seafood Company. Included on the menu are fresh shucked oysters, local Hogfish (sweet tasting fish) or the local fish catch of the day, crabs and of course the local delicacy of Conch (sea mollusk). No meal is complete until tasting a great big slice key lime pie.

A Romantic Place to Stay in Key West

Chelsea House is quite restful. All of the cliches apply–cozy, immaculately clean, friendly staff, ideally located and the beds in the room are down right comfortable. When you’re a guest of Chelsea House continental breakfast by the pool is included. That’s the time to meet all of the other guests. The conversations can be quite fascinating because there are people visiting from around the world. Everyone has a story to tell and chances are you’ll hear many of them during breakfast.

Chelsea House, Key West

Chelsea House, Key West

The property is located close enough to Duval Street, the main avenue of the town, that you don’t need a car to see the happenings of Key West. Your room also is far enough away that you won’t be disturbed with any pedestrian traffic or sounds of the bars and restaurants. There are no elevators at this hotel.

Things to See in Key West and Islamorada

A short walk and an even shorter bicycle ride from the Chelsea House is the famed Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. Hemingway of course was the American Nobel Prize in Literature-winning writer whose colorful life was often in full view on Key West, between 1931 and 1939. The museum features lush grounds, original furnishings, including Hemingway’s typewriters, his personal papers and photos of himself and celebrity friends. As you walk around the massive grounds you notice there are cats walking about. Hemingway loved cats but not just ordinary cats. He fancied a breed of cats with 6 toes. He said they bring good luck. Descendants of his original pets today are rather friendly and many of them will stop and pose for photos with you. They accept gratuities — kitty nibbles. It’s the cutest things you’ll ever see.

Touring Key West but not making a stop at the “Southern Most Point” marker or the Blue Heaven Restaurant would be an incomplete visit. The point is an iconic photo taking spot for tourists. The famous Blue Heaven is a bit eclectic but it’s a really cool place to enjoy a fantastic meal in a courtyard setting, or sip on a cool strong drink, sing along to some live local music and savor a big slice of the restaurant’s world renown key lime pie.

A real southern comfort dish that a lot of guests order is the local pink shrimp and grits bowl that’s topped with fresh melted gourmet cheeses and a side of fruit. These shrimp are so sweet and succulent! This combination is like holding a flavor convention in your mouth! Blue Heaven is a very popular spot and sometimes there’s a bit of a wait for a table but it’s well worth your patience.

America celebrates 100 years of the national parks and recreation system in 2016. Also, the Florida’s Keys National Marine Sanctuary is now 25 years old. You’d do yourself a tremendous favor to check out this sanctuary. This almost 3-thousand nautical mile protected area of water ways between Biscayne and Dry Tortugas is home to about 6-thousand pretty special and even some endangered sea creatures, such as the panther, the majestic manatee, sea birds, turtles, sharks, dolphins, fish, crabs, oysters, mangrove islands, sand flats, coral reef and even shipwrecks.

Paul parasailing in the Florida Keys

Paul parasailing over the Florida Keys

Another far-out over the top adventure for visitors to the Keys is going Parasailing. Quietly floating over the Gulf Water looking down into the clear water is quite serene and just fun! If you ask the skilled boat pilot will make maneuvers to allow you to skip your feet along the warm ocean waves for a cool refreshing adrenaline rush.

Perhaps the most relaxing and wonderful way to spend a late afternoon and early evening is at sea sailing with the Danger Charters Wind & Wine Sunset Cruise team. Hearing the sounds of rushing ocean water and big sails rustling in the gentle wind is quite tranquil as you watch the sun slowly drift down onto the orange and blue tint Florida horizon. Artisan cheeses, cured meats, bread, fresh fruits, wine and pleasant conversations with other guests aboard, and the gracious crew help make the experience one for your “life’s forever memories book.”

Teresa fishing in the Florida Keys

Teresa fishing in the Florida Keys

Fine dinning in Key West doesn’t get much more elegant than sitting for a full course meal at romantically secluded Latitudes Restaurant on Sunset Keys Island. Here, you just let the meal unfold before you. We noticed a few guests ordering steak. Chef Todd Holender’s eye appealing and even more delectably scrumptious aged beef dish is topped with mushroom, cheese, gourmet butter glaze and served with asparagus prepared to perfect tenderness. The local seafood and pasta creations are a foodies’ fantasy dream come true. Filling this plate is a healthy portion of scallops, lobster, smoked yellow tomatoes and paprika oil atop of a bed of pasta and served with zucchini – drool drool delicious!

More Fun Under the Florida Sun; Islamorada & Dry Tortugas

Exploring the protected everglades, mangroves and getting in a little fishing in nearby Islamorada is spectacular. This area of the Florida Keys is the sports fishing capital of the world. You don’t need to be a seasoned fisherman to snag a bite or two. Guides at the world famous Bud and Mary’s Marina are experienced experts at finding ideal spots to see wildlife and drop a line in the water. They will even properly bait your fishing line to reel in a big one. The captain and crew are entertaining-telling tall fish tales and jokes. During the day, while out at sea, the tales seem to grow taller and funnier. You’ll likely laugh until you cry. Walk next door to the Lazy Days Cafe and you can have your catch of the day cooked and served the way you like it.

Travels and adventures to the Florida Keys have a very long history in the U.S. The Dry Tortugas was first written about in the early 1500’s when Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon sailed upon the land. During the American Civil War the tiny island was in operation as a Union Army prison known as Fort Jefferson. The most famous of the inmates was Dr. Samuel Mudd. He was wrongly convicted of conspiracy in President Abraham Lincoln’s assassination in 1865. Dr. Mudd repaired the broken leg of assassin John Wilkes Booth but had nothing to do with Lincoln’s death. Mudd was eventually pardoned. The island today is a national park visited by tourists and campers. The island is 70 miles south of Key West.

A lot of folks opt to quickly fly over with Key West Seaplane Adventures. There is a lot to see during the trip from the low flying craft. Have your camera ready!

Dry Tortugas in the Florida Keys

Fly over Dry Tortugas in the Florida Keys

Want to know where locals like to eat?

Dining on white tables next to the water front along with swing-chairs that allow you to enjoy a little warm sand in your toes with your meal while watching the magenta colored sunset is rather romantic at the Marker 88 Restaurant. It’s been around since the late 1960’s. Having a meal and drinks here is like being invited to your neighbor’s house for a friendly evening backyard party. The unrivaled cuisine served by chef Bobby Stoky are rather beautiful to the eyes and are drizzled and dripping with full flavors. The local yellow snapper fish prepared with key lime butter and the award winning crab cakes were popular plates orders on the night of our visit. The rib-eye steak prepared with mangrove honey and pepper glaze can make you giddy with delight – very, very tender and wonderfully bold tasty. If you enjoy a variety of international beer or wine they’re on the list here. Oh My!

It can be rather fitting to wind down a romantic and adventurous trip to the Keys in true luxury. The Cheeca Lodge and Spa is an historic and spectacular property. It’s hosted world celebrities and U.S. Presidents. When you’re a guest, you enjoy an exquisite private beach, a golf course and large comfortable suites with wonderful sunset views or gazes of the lush green landscapes. Dining at the Lodge is heavenly.

Seafood plate in Blue Heaven

Seafood plate in the Florida Keys

Four different restaurants for every taste desire. You need only ask, and the dish is yours — everything from sushi, American and Italian favorites, super fresh seafood and burgers and fries- gourmet style of course. Chances are you’ll make many return visits to the Florida Keys.

Anytime is a cool time to kick it in the Florida Keys!

Sunset Sail off Key West

Sunset Sail off Key West; credit Dwight Brown

Paul & Teresa sailing on the Florida Keys

Paul & Teresa sailing on the Florida Keys

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Tiger Woods AT&T Tournament

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Tiger Woods AT&T Tournament

AT&T Tournament, Tiger Woods

Tiger Woods AT&T Tournament

by Calvin Young, Soul Of America

After watching Tiger’s performance one weekend in June 2009, I am now more convinced than ever that he is a man among boys as these professionals play the game of golf. There he is, tournament host, new father, fairly new husband, owner of a $110 million dollar conglomerate, and head of a major foundation, that happend to have a board meeting in the middle of the tournament, and he still manages to beat the best golfers in the world. They gotta be frustrated out of their minds. But give them credit. They keep coming back for more.

While he sometimes errs, I find that Tiger often plays possum to keep the score close and the match interesting. Patrons get bored with blow-outs and soon head for the exits when one is in progress. In the end, he does just enough to win a tournament. Tiger is like a pool shark that does just enough to make suckers think they have a chance. He “keeps hope alive” and the paying public coming back for more. His doubters can cheer the opposition, while harboring fears of another tiger Woods win. His mother knows. She recently bragged that her son “wills the ball into the hole.” If the PGA organizers were as smart as they think they are, they would insist on a handicap of at least 5 for Woods.

Personally, I like blow-outs. John Thompson’s former basketball teams were more to my liking. Beat them by twenty boys and let their heads hang down. Heaven help you if I get you down.

Here’s a case in point on last day of the ATT tournament. Tiger is matched with Anthony Kim, winner of last years tournament and anticipated successor to an older, less capable Tiger. The “boy can play” as we say in the hood. Kim had shot a 62 earlier in the week, setting a new record for this Congressional Blue Course. However, by the time we get to Hole 16, the trumpeted match-up between Kim and Tiger fizzled as the youngster was down by 3 and out of the match.

A new competitor however, came out of nowhere. H. Mahan shot a 62 earlier on this day and was even with Tiger Woods. Tiger had to birdie the 16th to go one up and maintain par for the final three holes to win the tournament. Tiger was a long 20 feet away from the hole. And frankly, he seemed distracted and uncomfortable with his play on the course. Very close misses on the greens will do that to everyone.

Tiger knew he was even with Mahan and had to sink that putt to go up by one or risk a play-off and possible loss. Mahan actually headed for the practice greens to warm-up as Tiger seemed to falter. What does Tiger do? He steps up, silences a photographer making noises with his camera, and sinks the 20-footer like it was written in a movie script. He then proceeds to make par on the last two holes to win the tournament. What a golfer!

I wish I was as good at anything as Tiger is at golf. I should be a minor member of a throng of other sport writers, who are of mostly European descent. These sportscasters should be a throng praising Tiger’s unprecidented mastery of golf. They would invent new adjectives of praise. Sadly, this is not true, Tiger is somewhat damned by faint praise. I do believe this would not be the case if Tiger’s parents hailed exclusively from Europe. There now, yes I said it and only because it is true. The kids of all parentage adore him for the titan he is and are unrestrained in their adulation and praise.

Many old foggies, on the other hand, are silently hoping for a return of the good ole days of “White Only” professional golf. I do not resent them for this. I kind of feel sorry for them. Golf is the latest in a long line of sports that have come to be dominated by performers of color.

I sense that they are not that comfortable with “their” game being manhandled by a bronze-toned Man who handles the best of them like a kid with a toy. Even a hero like Anthony Kim will serve if he, like Frazier to Ali, can knock Tiger off his throne. The fact that Tiger can maintain a comfortable demeanor, while this is going on under the radar, is testament to his training and maturity.

Me, I just admire perfection, or as close as one can get to it. Michael Jackson performing on stage, Michael Jordan on a basketball court, Muhammad Ali in the boxing ring, Gunter Gable Williams petting tigers and lions in the ring … You catch my drift. These are once in a lifetime gifts from the Creator to entertain us.

So step up boys and girls and enjoy the show while you can, for we will not soon see Tiger’s like on a golf course again.

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Obama Inauguration

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Barack Obama Inauguration

Barack Obama Inauguration in 2009

Barack Obama Inauguration

Both historic Obama Inaugurations are worth capturing for many reasons. For African-Americans, his presidential achievement is also a matter of racial pride. For the nation as a whole, his 2nd term presidency was also an undeniable symbol of social progress in a morally flawed, oft-confused nation. He is also more popular today than when he left office.

Photos – People’s Reactions

Photos – Celebrities at Inaugural Balls

Article – Black First Family Changes Everything

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Marches To Black Mayors

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Marion Barry

Marion Barry, former Washington DC Mayor

Marches To Black Mayors

In 1974, Congress returned the right to vote to DC residents, whereupon they elected Walter Washington mayor. Marion Barry followed him as mayor in 1978. Though Randall Robinson choreographed the first anti-apartheid protests in front of the South African embassy in the 1980s, Marion Barry shaped and influence leadership in the city for the next 20 years. He completed many public works in under-served neighborhoods, opened more city jobs to Black residents and fostered economic redevelopment projects, including the historically black U Street-Shaw District. It helped Barry’s image that Robert Johnson founded BET here during Barry’s first term in office.

In stark contrast to his early successes, Barry was caught using drugs on videotape in a sting operation. Barry’s indictment and subsequent jailing helped usher in Sharon Pratt Kelly as the first African American woman elected mayor of a major city. Never developing a power base in the neighborhoods, Kelly lost re-election in 1994, when Barry returned. Though a heart-breaking disappointment to many, Barry was justifiably loved for leading the rebuilding of Shaw District, being mayor in support of the African American Civil War Memorial and the record-breaking Million Man March. Barry’s flaws and enemies are well documented. He was simultaneously stripped of power and did not run for reelection in 1998. A congressionally approved Black accountant with strict Congressional budget mandates, Anthony Williams, to become mayor.

In October 1995, the Million Man March envisioned by Minister Louis Farrakhan was as much a grand cultural event as it was a collective spiritual calling. So many brothers simply wanted to see if that many of us would meet, and if such a gathering would be pulled off without a hitch. To most people’s pleasant surprise, the event was a massive success. Somewhere between 900,000 and 1.2 million people attended the event, which only C-SPAN deemed worthy of major coverage. Many attendees informed loved ones that it was a cathartic event in their life. After the march, many dead-beat dads resurfaced to pay bills and spend time with their kids. Black child adoption increased. More church attendance by men was reported. Not bad for an event without solid pre-announced goals and objectives for each attendee.

In October 2005, the Millions More Movement held a similar scale event, though it invited men and women. It too went off without a hitch, but it did have goals and objectives for each attendee and for Black families. The results are undetermined.

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MLK National Memorial

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David at the 30 foot high MLK Memorial

David at the 30-foot high MLK National Memorial, Washington; (c) Soul Of America

MLK National Memorial

by Lysa Allman-Baldwin, Soul Of America

28 August 2013 marked the 50th anniversary of Dr. Martin Luther King’s historic “I Have A Dream Speech,” which in many ways was the crowning moment of his relentless pursuit of the American Dream — Freedom, Democracy and Opportunity for all. This monument of stone memorializes his contributions.

At the beginning of the Civil War in 1861, President Lincoln only wanted to preserve the Union. That changed by 1865, shortly before his assassination. President Lincoln mentioned a vision of equality in this country. Dr. Martin Luther King’s speech atop the steps of the Lincoln Memorial expanded upon that vision.

Although Dr. Martin Luther King’s speech is often the focal point of the March On Washington on 28 August 1963, it is important to emphasize the work of hundreds of civil rights activists and private citizens leading to that unprecedented event, including:

A. Phillip Randolph
Bayard Rustin
John Lewis
Andrew Young
James Garner
Cleveland Williams
Whitney Young
Roy Wilkins
Jessie Jackson
Dr. Ralph Bunch
Hosea Williams
Ralph Abernathy
James Baldwin

From the entertainment industry Harry Belafonte, Sidney Poitier, Ruby Dee, Ossie Davis, Marian Anderson, Jackie Robinson, Bill Russell, Josephine Baker, Lena Horne, Diahann Carroll, Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, Sammy Davis Jr., Charlton Heston, Burt Lancaster, Joan Baez, and Bob Dylan were among the contingent of celebrities and pro athletes supporting the Civil Rights Movement via financial contributions and presence at the march.

The bountiful voice of Mahalia Jackson, Dr. King’s favorite singer, set the vibe. All of them made the occasion momentous and told America that legalized segregation and unequal rights must end.

At the end of the day, it was King’s exceptional oratory skills and widely-recognized prose of equality—through non-violence—that captivated the world.

The desire to have Dr. King’s memorial take his rightful place in our nation’s capital with other national leaders of yesteryear began to take shape in 1996. Congress authorized Dr. King’s fraternity, Alpha Phi Alpha, to establish such a memorial. Through the formation of the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Memorial Project Foundation, the location, and design came to fruition sculptor. Though controversial to some, the bold sculpture by Chinese artist Master Lei Yixin has stood the test of time.

Celebrating its Grand Opening on August 28, 2011, The Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial stands today not only as a commemoration of Dr. King’s life and work but also as a brilliant symbol of the strides our society has made since the Civil Rights Movement era, as well as how we must keep striving, together as a nation, to reach the mountaintop.

Located on Washington DC’s Tidal Basin, the Memorial is fashioned in a crescent geometric pattern within a trilateral configuration that incorporates awe-inspiring views of the Abraham Lincoln and Thomas Jefferson Memorials, other great pillars of history symbolizing the shared desire to forge a nation truly for, of and by the people—all people—regardless of race, creed or color.

Whether visiting during the day or at night, the MLK National Memorial is a commanding presence on the D.C. landscape, encapsulating the ideals of justice, hope, democracy, and love – which appeared over and over in Dr. King’s written and oratorical messages.

Engraved words aside the MLK National Memorial

Engraved words aside the MLK National Memorial; (c) Soul Of America

Each element of the Memorial sends its own distinctive, yet collectively powerful message. There is “The Mountain of Despair”, symbolizing the place where our nation lived for so many decades and tried valiantly, in many ways, to overcome. On one side is a quote from Dr. King’s 1963 speech: “Out of the mountain of despair a stone of hope.”

The Mountain is parted in two, giving way to The Stone of Hope. Created from a unique white granite with color inclusions reportedly only found in China, the Stone is the focal point of the memorial. Highlighted by King’s contemplative gaze and posture captured in a life-like, 30-foot statue, his image burgeons forth from the Stone, his arms folded authoritatively across his chest characterizing his steadfast resolve to let nothing deter him from attaining the vision of providing future generations with a society comprised of love, tolerance, and equality.

Rounding out the trilateral configuration are the North and South Walls on either side of the spacious plaza, possessing more than a dozen poignant inscriptions of vignettes from Dr. King’s sermons and talks, grand speeches, and written instruments throughout his lifetime.

There was a controversy between the King family, historians, and others over the abbreviated quote from a sermon Dr. King gave in 1968, “I was a drum major for justice, peace and righteousness”, inscribed on one side of the Mountain of Despair. Award-winning poet and consultant on the memorial, Maya Angelou said “The quote makes Dr. King look like an arrogant twit.” Though no solution will satisfy everyone, on 1 August 2013, the quote was removed. In order to preserve the balance and integrity of the Memorial, both sides have been reworked.

Sisters visiting MLK National Memorial

Sisters visiting MLK National Memorial; (c) Soul Of America

Nevertheless, the memorial’s creation and prominent placement remain as defining moments to Dr. King’s life, work, and legacy, and to our country’s storied history.

PHONE: National Park Service 202-426-6841
WEBSITE: http://www.nps.gov/mlkm/index.htm

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Abolitionist & Civil Rights Movements

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Frederick Douglass, Abolitionist & Civil Rights Movements

Frederick Douglass at 29

Abolitionist & Civil Rights Movements

One writer describes early District of Columbia as a “slave emporium”. Simultaneously, DC was a center of abolitionist activity led by free persons of color. The contest between these factions rendered a dual personality for the city from 1790 until Emancipation, followed by a hotbed of Civil Rights activity.

In the late 1850s, Frederick Douglass was an abolitionist of national stature. Due to fugitive slave status however, his movements into Washington were restricted until the end of the Civil War. Less iconic figures had to carry the mantle of freeing enslaved people in DC. Conductors like Anthony Bowen, an educator and former slave, made DC a busy stop on the Underground Railroad. The Abolitionist Movement, though spirited, had slow moving impact because it attacked the largest source of economic exploitation in a capitalist society. Even though most were bible-reading Christians, few slaveholders would give up “free” labor that created wealth for their families. It took years of Abolitionists lobbying Congress before 1850, when Congress abolished open slave trading in Washington, DC. Unfortunately, the law did nothing for people already enslaved.

With the Civil War beginning in 1861, a new dynamic entered into the slavery institution. A majority of young southern white males had to leave plantations and farms to serve the Union or Confederacy. In DC and Maryland, this was a particularly tough choice given Maryland’s northern leaning border status and President Lincoln representing the Union, thereby making DC a de facto northern outpost in the South. With Union soldiers guarding the Capitol, some of whom were colored, Congress was emboldened to abolish ALL slavery in DC in April 1862. That’s one year before Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation. Ironically, there are reports of slave laborers hoisting the Statue of Freedom on top of the Capitol. But the good news is that, with fewer overseers around, more people from the South escaped slavery. In 1863, nearly 300 enslaved people escaped from Fredericksburg, Virginia to establish Shiloh Baptist Church in DC.

Despite the End of Reconstruction in 1877 and the Plessy vs. Ferguson Supreme Court Decision in 1896, Washington, DC became one of the most progressive cities in the nation. With new human rights, African Americans formed one of the largest and prosperous communities in the nation from 1865 to 1920s.

While establishing the National Council of Negro Women in 1935, Mary McLeod Bethune became a frequent White House guest and friend of First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt. In 1939, when the Daughters of the American Revolution denied Marian Anderson the right to sing in Constitution Hall, Bethune used her suasion with Eleanor Roosevelt to arrange for Anderson to sing at the Lincoln Memorial. In a triumphant moment in American history, 75,000 people attended, more than quintuple the seating capacity at Constitution Hall.

In 1941, A. Phillip Randolph planned The first March on Washington.  This march for access to Defense jobs was called off, partly to prevent being labeled “unpatriotic”, as Europe began sucking America into World War II. In lieu of the march, the prevailing reasoning was that African American soldiers fighting for victory abroad would better justify leverage demands for broader Civil Rights at home.

President Lyndon Johnson’s Great Society Programs meant well. By leveraging the halo effect of JFK’s assassination on 22 November 1963, Johnson spearheaded most civil rights legislation passed from 1964-68. For a time, there was a revolving door of Black leaders doing photo ops with the President signing each piece of social legislation. Johnson should not however be viewed in heroic terms because he did authorize or permit the COINTELPRO program against prominent Black leaders, including Dr. King. He also underestimated or fooled by the hungry dragon in Southeast Asia. The Vietnam War sucked away money that would have funded better education, public works and made more capital available to capital markets for business investment.

In hindsight when one listens to the President Johnson Oval Office tapes, its clear that he didn’t know who to trust in the Pentagon since they claimed victory was just around the corner … just sign off on this budget increase year after year. Meanwhile resentment in Black communities, hardest hit by unfunded Great Society Programs, police brutality, and “last-hired, first-fired” practices stored up like a powder keg.

Dr. King’s assassination on 4 April 1968 lit the fuse. Bad elements in Black communities exploited the anger, exploding into a three-day riot that caused $27 million (a lot for that time) in property damage, 12 deaths, and 7,600 arrests. It was one of the worst outbreaks in the nation — not surprising given DC was a microcosm of the nation. No one thought about the stupidity of burning down Black-friendly businesses next to Black-owned businesses in Black communities. Given Black leaders had seen the devastation of Watts riots in 1965 and Detroit riots in 1967 and Muhammad Ali refusing to join the military in 1967, they missed a unique opportunity to reshape the political, economic, military and social dialogue of America in positive ways.

America has changed a lot in the last four decades and Washington, DC has grown in stature by leaps and bounds. The metro area is now woven together with one of the nation’s best rail transit systems and the DC Convention Center is as functional as it is spectacular. Major league baseball has returned to the Capitol. New museums and monuments on the Mall signal that our nation is finally recognizing that all walks of life made America great, even at her worst. The Federal District, Downtown, Southwest, U Street-Shaw District, Georgetown, Foggy Bottom and East Capitol Districts have never looked better from a tourist – residential and retail construction are booming.

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Washington DC General Attractions

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Washington DC General Attractions

Ride the Ducks boat to the U.S. Capitol

Washington DC General Attractions

White House
DESCRIPTION: After viewing it from the outside, see the orientation film and free brochure at the nearby Visitor Center. It takes 90 minutes to explore all the exhibits, which include architecture, furnishings, first family history and relations with world leaders.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 7:30a-4p
ADDRESS: 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: for get about it
TRANSIT: Federal Triangle and Metro Center stations
PHONE: 202-208-1631 or 800-717-1450
WEBSITE: http://www.whitehouse.gov

United States Capitol
DESCRIPTION: Under the magnificent white dome built using predominantly slave labor, our US senators and representatives create national laws. Although the Capitol was built with slave labor, a stone bust of Dr Martin Luther King Jr. is the only African American bust inside, which features well over 200 other statues. Tours are offered daily. Enjoy your view from the Western steps where speakers perched before the Million Man March on 16 October 1996. Satellite photos confirmed that about one million people attended. The massive underground Visitor Center is now open.
ADMISSION: free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 9a-4:30p
ADDRESS: National Mall, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garage nearby
TRANSIT: Capitol South and Union Station Metro Stations
PHONE: 202-225-6827
WEBSITE: http://www.visitthecapitol.gov

Old Post Office Pavilion
DESCRIPTION: Opened in 1899, the original Post Office embodied innovative steel and granite architecture as DC’s first skyscraper at 12 stories. It was built to house both the U.S. Post Office and the DC Post Office and was the largest and tallest government building in the city. Though nearly demolished in the 1980s, preservationists saved it and convinced a developer to restored it with shops and restaurants. It is now being converted to a hotel.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: Mon-Sat 10a-7p, Sun Noon-7p; longer Summer
ADDRESS: 1100 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garage on premises
TRANSIT: Federal Triangle Metro Station
PHONE: 202-289-4224
WEBSITE: http://www.oldpostofficedc.com

Freedom Plaza
DESCRIPTION: Viewed from above, the plaza displays L’Enfant’s landscape plan for DC. Interspersed throughout the plaza are engraved quotes from John Adams, Alexander Graham Bell, and Martin Luther King, Jr and others. Dr. King fine-tuned his I Have A Dream speech at the Willard Hotel facing the plaza. Beneath the plaza is the time capsule containing Dr. King’s bible, robe and other memorabilia. It was planted on 15 January 1988 and re-opened 15 January 2008. It is not coincidence that it has become a popular place for political protests and civic events.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: 24/7
ADDRESS: Pennsylvania Avenue at 12th Street NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garage nearby and on street
TRANSIT: Federal Triangle Metro Station
PHONE: none
WEBSITE: none

Library of Congress
DESCRIPTION: Think libraries shouldn’t be high on your list to visit? Think again because this one is really special. Its the world’s largest library with almost 119 million items in three buildings and numerous rare artifacts and American treasures of the Library of Congress.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: Mon-Sat 10a-5:30p
ADDRESS: 10 First Street SE, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garage nearby and on street
TRANSIT: Capitol South Metro Station
PHONE: 202-707-8000
WEBSITE: http://www.loc.gov

Georgetown
DESCRIPTION: Partly a historically black district that evolved into a premier village in the nation’s capital known for its charm and human scale. Explore the diverse activities available in Georgetown by clicking on your category of interest. Stroll the unique C & O Canal and Shop and dine at dozens of eclectic and upscale shops on M Street and adjoining historic streets. Enjoy restaurants on Georgetown’s beautiful waterfront or take a river cruise, if you like. The district includes a number of secret gardens and foreign embassies.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: dawn until late
ADDRESS: M Street, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garage nearby and on street
TRANSIT: Circulating tour bus between Georgetown and Union Station
PHONE: 202-298-9222
WEBSITE: http://www.georgetowndc.com

Adams-Morgan
DESCRIPTION: At one time, DC’s hottest district for funky shops and ethnic restaurants, it has become an ethnically diverse neighborhood of immigrants and young urban professionals comfortable with itself and all who visit. That diversity is good news for tourists who can sample from a couple dozen cuisines and nightclubs within blocks of each other.
ADMISSION: free
DAYS & HOURS: dawn until late
ADDRESS: 18th Street and Columbia Road NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: on street
TRANSIT: DuPont Circle Metro Station
PHONE: 202-232-1960
WEBSITE: http://www.ammainstreet.org

Newseum
DESCRIPTION: Opened in 2008, this 250,000-square-foot museum offers visitors an experience that blends five centuries of news history with current technology and captivating interactive exhibits. Permanent exhibits include Surrounded by the Flow of Information, The Story of News, Chronicling an Attack on America, Getting the News Electronically, Award-Winning Images and Photographers Who Took Them, A Barrier That Couldn’t Block Information, 45 Words of Freedom, News and Press Freedoms Around the Globe. Every morning more than 600 newspapers from every state and from countries around the world submit their front pages to Newseum via the Internet to be part of the Front Pages From Across America and Around the World. See OBAMA MAKES HISTORY: 700+ newspaper front pages on 5 November 2008
ADMISSION: $20 Adults, ages 65+, $18 military and students, $13 ages 7 to 18, ages 6 and under Free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 9a-5p
ADDRESS: 555 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: public garages nearby; rates vary
TRANSIT: Archives/Navy Memorial-Penn Quarter Metro Station
PHONE: 888-639-7386
WEBSITE: http://www.newseum.org

International Spy Museum
DESCRIPTION: Dedicated to the trade craft, history, and contemporary role of espionage. It features the largest and most fascinating collection of international spy-related museum artifacts and exhibits from across the globe. For a bonus, look at the old the historic buildings comprising the museum which were constructed between 1875 to 1892.
ADMISSION: $15 Adults, $12 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under Free
DAYS & HOURS: typically 10 am to 6 pm with last admission at 4p; special events stay open longer
ADDRESS: 800 F Street NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garages nearby
TRANSIT: Gallery Plaza-Chinatown Metro Station
PHONE: 202-393-7798
WEBSITE: http://www.spymuseum.org

National Geographic Society
DESCRIPTION: Features an interactive exhibit about the earth and all its inhabitants, Earth Station One, an amphitheater that simulates an orbital flight, and many changing exhibits.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: Mon-Sat 9a-5p, Sun 10a-5p
ADDRESS: 1145 17th Street NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garages nearby and on street
TRANSIT: Farragut North Metro Station
PHONE: 202-857-7588
WEBSITE: http://www.ngs.org

National Museum of the American Indian
DESCRIPTION: Opened in 2004, this stunningly beautiful venue is dedicated to the Native peoples of North, South and Central America. Occupying 260,000-square feet, it has the most extensive collection of Native American art and artifacts in the world representing over 10,000 years of history. Its galleries include: Our Universes, Our People, Our Lives, Native Modernism, Native American Boat-building. The hallmark of this museum is that exhibitions and programs are presented in the Native American voice and perspective; enter at the east entrance of the museum for the best effect.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a-5:30p
ADDRESS: 4th Street & Independence Avenue SW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: limited garage parking on premises and on street
TRANSIT: L’Enfant Plaza Metro Station and Federal Center SW Metro Center
PHONE: 202-633-1000
WEBSITE: http://www.nmai.si.edu

United States Holocaust Memorial Museum
DESCRIPTION: No other venue in North America better interprets the Holocaust in Europe where over 5 million Jews and tens of thousands of gypsies and Poles were killed by the Nazis. A number of sobering special exhibitions and an extensive archives document that period of human history. Many architectural details of the building allude to elements of the Holocaust. Due to heavy demand, timed passes are necessary for visiting The Holocaust exhibition. Get them at least 1 day in advance.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a–5:30p, except Christmas and Yom Kippur
ADDRESS: 100 Raoul Wallenberg Place SW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: limited parking on street
PHONE: 800-400–9373
WEBSITE: http://www.ushmm.org

National Building Museum
DESCRIPTION: It was designed by Army Quartermaster General Montgomery C. Meigs in 1881 and constructed by 1887. This gorgeous building once housed the U.S. Pension Bureau to award Union veterans. Meigs, an innovator in building technology, designed this building to provide natural air-conditioning by using air vents in the exterior walls, where hot air escaped through skylights in the roof. The upward flow of air would draw in fresh air through the exterior wall openings near the bottom; from the time it was built, it was criticized for not fitting in with Washington’s architectural scheme. Today, it is acknowledged as an engineering marvel and was designated as the National Building Museum in 1978. As America’s premier cultural institution celebrating architecture, engineering and urban planning, it’s a great place to take kids and adults who like to build things. Guided tours are available and photography is permitted in the Great Hall only. It features a small bakery and coffee cafe.
ADMISSION: free, $5 donation suggested
DAYS & HOURS: Mon-Sat 10a-5p, Sun 11a-5p
ADDRESS: 401 F Street NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: limited parking on street; nearby garages
TRANSIT: Judiciary Square Metro Station
PHONE: 202-272-2448
WEBSITE: http://www.nbm.org

National Archives
DESCRIPTION: This remarkable building is home to the original Declaration of Independence, U.S. Constitution, Bill of Rights, Emancipation Proclamation, Presidential Records and more than 3 billion national records. On a personal level, they provide genealogy records and information to help you recover damaged records and save family treasures.
ADMISSION: free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a-5:30p; extended summer hours
ADDRESS: 7th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garages nearby
TRANSIT: Archives-Navy Memorial-Penn Quarter Metro Station
PHONE: 866-272-6272
WEBSITE: http://www.archives.gov

National Museum of American History
DESCRIPTION: It features over 25,000 objects related to African American contributions in politics, social history, education and sports. An exhibition honors the 50th anniversary of the Brown vs. Board of Education ruling. The museum hosts a year-long exhibition exploring the struggle for social justice leading up to and following the Supreme Court ruling. Other popular exhibitions include American Presidency, Field to Factory, American Encounters and so much more. Its like opening the nation’s scrapbook.
ADMISSION: free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a-5:30p; extended summer hours
ADDRESS: 14th Street & Constitution Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: limited parking on street
TRANSIT: Smithsonian Metro Station
PHONE: 202-357-2700
WEBSITE: http://americanhistory.si.edu

Bureau of Engraving & Printing
DESCRIPTION: See our paper currency printed at 8,000 sheets per hour on a guided 35-minute tour. Tickets can be picked up at Raoul Wallenberg Place (formerly 15th Street) in the US Treasury Department.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: Mon-Fri 8a-1:45p
ADDRESS: 14th Street & C Streets SW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garages nearby
TRANSIT: Smithsonian Metro Station
PHONE: 202-874-2330
WEBSITE: http://www.moneyfactory.gov

Watergate Complex
DESCRIPTION: President Nixon’s scandalous spying on the Democratic National Committee in this upscale office-apartment-hotel complex will forever be a place of intrigue to visitors and food for hungry novelists. An Italian designer, inspired by the human reproductive system, sculpted these set of buildings, which opened in 1967. The Democratic National Committee HQ was on the sixth floor of the Virginia Avenue building. On 28 May 1972, burglars working for Nixon’s re-election campaign put wiretaps and took photos in the DNC office. The dimwits returned on 17 June 1972 and were caught. The episode led to the downfall of Nixon.
ADMISSION: free, but not to the hotel or office rooms
DAYS & HOURS: 24/7, once hotel renovation completes
ADDRESS: 2650 Virginia Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: garage on premises
TRANSIT: Foggy Bottom-GWU Metro Station
PHONE: 202-965-2300
WEBSITE: http://www.thewatergatehotel.com

U.S. National Arboretum
DESCRIPTION: Over 400 acres of trees, flowers, picnic grounds, herb gardens; National Bonsai Collection and Japanese Garden.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: daily 8a-5p
ADDRESS: 3501 New York Avenue NE, Washington DC MAP
PHONE: 202-245-2726

Malcolm X Park
DESCRIPTION: Beautiful Italian style-park that was renamed Malcolm X Park during the 1960s. Its a popular summer place for jam sessions in the park.
ADDRESS: 16th Street NW near W Street, Washington DC MAP

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Washington DC Family Attractions

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Cheetah & cub at the National Zoo, Washington DC Family Attractions

Cheetah & cub at the National Zoo

Washington DC Family Attractions

National Air and Space Museum
DESCRIPTION: The world’s most visited museum houses the Wright Brothers’ 1903 Flyer, Apollo 11 lunar command module among others. It also features Black Wings: The American Black in Aviation, a permanent exhibition of 180 photos tracing Black aviation achievements from World War I to the Space Shuttle. Don’t miss the short Tuskegee Airmen film narrated by Lt. General Benjamin O Davis, Jr., the first Black Air Force general. There is FREE admission to the museum. IMAX Theater shows films daily for a fee.
ADMISSION: Free for the museum, but a fee for Einstein Planetarium
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a-5:30p, extended summer hours
ADDRESS: 6th & Independence Avenues SW, Washington DCMAP
PARKING: limited garage parking on premises and on street
TRANSIT: L’Enfant Plaza Metro Station
PHONE: 202-357-2700
WEBSITE: http://www.nasm.si.edu

National Museum of Natural History
DESCRIPTION: While you are enthralled with the 45 carat Hope Diamond, the kids will dig the dinosaur fossils and spectacular Insect Zoo in this massive museum; an IMAX Theater provides a well rounded experience
ADMISSION: Free for the museum, but IMAX entry fee
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a-5:30p with extended summer hours
ADDRESS: 10th Street & Constitution Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: street
TRANSIT: Smithsonian Metro Station
PHONE: 202-357-2700
WEBSITE: http://www.mnh.si.edu

National Aquarium
DESCRIPTION: A historic and unique aquarium, without the high cost of major aquariums today – perfect for families; animal feedings are at 2pm. It is located in the Commerce Building.
ADMISSION: small fee
DAYS & HOURS: daily 9a-5p
ADDRESS: 14th Street & Constitution Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: street
TRANSIT: Federal Triangle Metro Station
PHONE: 202-482-2826
WEBSITE: http://www.nationalaquarium.com

Verizon Center
DESCRIPTION: Hosting more than 220 events each year, this arena is home to the NBA Washington Wizards and WNBA Washington Mystics basketball, NHL Capitols hockey, Georgetown college basketball. This popular entertainment center also offers sports history, sports retail and a Discovery Channel retail store.
ADMISSION: event-dependent
DAYS & HOURS: event-dependent
ADDRESS: 601 F Street NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: nearby garage
TRANSIT: Gallery Plaza-Chinatown Metro Station
PHONE: 202-628-3200
WEBSITE: http://www.verizoncenter.com

Nationals Park
DESCRIPTION: Opened in 2008, this LEED certified, 40,000-seat baseball park hosts MLB’s Washington Nationals; an outing in the park is always as good or better than the game itself. The park is ADA compliant. When building the park, workers uncovered layers of old bricks that were 12-14 feet below grade, indicating the probability of habitation at this level in the 1800s, until fill was dumped her. Fear not though, 34,095 truck loads of soil was excavated to ensure a safe environment for fans.
ADMISSION: cheap for outfield upper deck to expensive behind the plate
DAYS & HOURS: season runs April-September
ADDRESS: Potomac Avenue at South Capitol Street SE, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: on premises and nearby garages
TRANSIT: Navy Yard Metro Station
PHONE: 202-675-6287
WEBSITE: http://nationals.mlb.com/was/ballpark/index.jsp

National Zoo
DESCRIPTION: A 163-acre zoological park set amid Rock Creek National Park and part of the Smithsonian Institution, it really is the nation’s zoo. See more than 2,700 individual animals of 435 different species in natural-like habitats; of course, everyone comes to see the adorable panda bears; the zoo also enjoys premier status for its year round lecture and symposia activities; on a lesser note, many fans also enjoy its microbreweries beer tasting event each year.
ADMISSION: Free
DAYS & HOURS: November-March 10a-4:30p, April-October 10a-6p
ADDRESS: 3001 Connecticut Avenue NW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: one premises parking for a fee
TRANSIT: Woodley Park-Zoo Metro Station
PHONE: 202-633-4800
WEBSITE: http://nationalzoo.si.edu

Tidal Basin Pedal Boats
DESCRIPTION: A wonderful family activity with lots of rentals available from March-September.
ADMISSION: $12/hour 2 passenger boat, $19/hour 4 passenger boat
DAYS & HOURS: daily 10a-4p
ADDRESS: 1501 Maine Avenue SW, Washington DC MAP
PARKING: street or nearby garage
TRANSIT: L’Enfant Plaza Metro Station
PHONE: 202-479-2426
WEBSITE: http://www.tidalbasinpeddleboats.com

C & O Canal Lock & Boats
DESCRIPTION: Enjoy a one-hour narrated trip on a canal boat pulled by mules. National Park Service staff in period clothing guide the boat through an eight-foot lift lock and past historic buildings along the canal in Georgetown.
ADMISSION: Adults $8 Seniors $6 and children $5
ADDRESS: 1057 Thomas Jefferson Street NW, Washington DCMAP
PARKING: street or nearby garage
TRANSIT: Foggy Bottom-GWU Metro Station
PHONE: 202-653-5190
WEBSITE: http://www.nps.gov/choh

West and East Potomac Park
DESCRIPTION: This park covers over 700 tree-lined acres, it is one of the most beloved parks in DC, as witnessed by the parking problem. One side faces the Potomac River side facing the Washington Channel. Within the West Park is the Franklin D. Roosevelt Monument. The atypical for DC monuments also pays tribute to that great First Lady, Eleanor Roosevelt.
ADDRESS: west of Tidal Basin and southwest of Jefferson Memorial MAP

Rock Creek Park
DESCRIPTION: Established in 1890, one of the oldest national parks and largest forested urban parks in the US covering over 1700 acres. Picnic areas, horseback riding, tennis, golf, hiking, nature and biking trails. Nature center with Planetarium. You should also visit Old Stone House, Pierce Mill and Fort Stevens.
DAYS & HOURS: Open daily daylight hours
ADDRESS: 3545 Williamsburg Lane NW, Washington DC MAP
PHONE: 202-282-1063
WEBSITE: http://www.nps.gov/rocr

Six Flags America Theme Park
DESCRIPTION: A theme and water park featuring over 100 attractions, highlighted by eight excellent roller coasters, including Batwing and the Superman rides. Entry to Hurricane Harbor waterpark is a separate fee.
ADMISSION: $36, children $25
DAYS & HOURS: 10:30a-10p
ADDRESS: 13710 Central Avenue, Upper Marlboro, MD MAP
PARKING: expensive parking fee
TRANSIT: Largo Town Center Metro Station
PHONE: 301-249-1500
WEBSITE: http://www.sixflags.com/parks/america

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U Street-Shaw District

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Mural beside Be's Chili Bowl on U Street

Mural beside Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street; (c) Soul Of America

U Street-Shaw District

Though U Street-Shaw District rivals Adams-Morgan District as DC’s boutique hot spot, it’s important to review the origin story to fully appreciate the fight to preserve its Black Culture by patronizing Black-owned businesses.

More U Street-Shaw District Origin Story

Prior to the Civil War, U Street-Shaw District consisted of only trees. It evolved into military camps during wartime for former slaves escaping from the South. One of these camps developed into a neighborhood named in honor of Colonel Robert Gould Shaw, the white officer who led the black Massachusetts 54th Regiment in the Civil War. You can see his dramatized character in the movie “Glory”, starring Matthew Broderick, Morgan Freeman, and Denzel Washington in his first Oscar-winning performance.

In a protected environment, U Street-Shaw District emerged into a strong African American community that nurtured many great artistic talents more than twenty years before the 1920s Harlem Renaissance.

A walk down U Street in Shaw District provides an inviting illustration of Black cultural history that is still evident today. Its buildings have become widely known landmarks and its people, past and present provide physical representations of the community’s great achievements.

Duke Ellington often played at venues in the U Street/Shaw District

Duke Ellington grew up in in the U Street/Shaw District; (c) Soul Of America

Duke Ellington, the renowned jazz artist, was born in the Shaw district in 1899. The piano lessons in his early years eventually lead to the formation of his own band in his late teens. A visitor to Washington should consider taking a walking tour of “Duke Ellington’s DC: A Tour of the Shaw Neighborhood. The tour portrays the life of the celebrated jazz artist but also includes the lives of other famous black Americans from the area.

Decades before Harlem’s Apollo Theater hosted black entertainers, Howard’s Theater stage was home to the best performers in vaudeville and early 20th-century jazz. In the 1920s-50s, the area was filled with nightclubs, theaters, and places with names like the Cimarron Club, Club Bengasi, The Green Parrot, Club Bali, The Crystal Caverns, Republic Gardens, and the Lincoln Colonnade.

Billie Holiday mural inside Howard Theatre, Washington

Billie Holiday mural inside Howard Theatre supper club on T Street; (c) Soul Of America

The hottest music and latest dance crazes in black entertainment thrived on U Street and led Pearl Bailey to bestow the nickname, “The Black Broadway” upon U Street. Others called it the “Colored Man’s Connecticut Avenue.” White patrons visited to see & hear many of the best entertainers in the country.

But our country could not sustain one Black and one White America. From 1954-70, the Civil Rights Movement was like running water over a rock, gradually eroding legal segregation and discrimination so Black folks could gradually live, work, shop, and dine in new places in the area. U Street-Shaw District glory slowly deteriorated as shopping malls and freeways enticed people to the outskirts of town.

If that pace continued, the rebound of U Street would likely have happened in the 1970s, as it did for Georgetown and Adams-Morgan. But the gradual demographic shift quickly transformed into a rousing exodus days after the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. on 4 April 1968,

Ben's Chili Bowl, Washington

Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street; (c) Soul Of America

White-owned businesses in the Black districts of DC were looted and burned. Fires knew no boundaries so many adjacent Black-owned businesses burned too. National TV networks broadcast the same disturbing images to millions of Americans. Predictably, most surviving businesses shuttered, a notable exception being Ben’s Chili Bowl. In those fallow years between 1968 to 1990, despair and drugs were the order of the day. You could often double-park on U Street.

About 1990, the shining Black Knight most credited for saving U Street-Shaw District was at work — Mayor Marion Berry. Despite his embarrassing fall from grace, Berry is loved for opening a government office building that returned hundreds of jobs and hopes to the area. He also attracted more federal redevelopment funds here and ensured that it would receive a Metro Rail station. He was arguably, the biggest catalyst for the district’s rebirth.

Restorations of the Lincoln Theater, Dunbar Hotel, Whitelaw Hotel, 12th Street YMCA, and True Reformers Hall were quickly followed by charitable organizations and developers. Restaurants and nightclubs reopened and many homes in the community were restored. African American Civil War Memorial anchors Shaw District at the 10th and U Streets Metro Station. Sine we published a Soul Of America DC map in 1996, we witnessed the transformation to today.

African American Civil War Memorial at U Street & Vermont Ave

African American Civil War Memorial at U Street & Vermont Avenue

Across the street just below U Street on Vermont Avenue, African American Civil War Museum has relocated inside the historic Grimke School Building. It gives you the backstory of Colored Troops who helped win our freedoms today. Heritage trail signs along U Street remind every visitor of the diverse range of businesses and activities of Shaw District’s Chitlin’ Circuit roots.

Lincoln Theatre has a restored marquee and lots of polish. Some would say a bit too polished because most of the performing acts are non-Black. It may be the biggest “Tell of Gentrification” in the neighborhood. In its heyday, U Street-Shaw District was said to have nearly 300 mostly Black-owned businesses. Today, there are a couple dozen.

That’s somewhat understandable because our capitalist system permits property owners to raise rents. As a result, the low rents vanished along with several Black-owned businesses in U Street-Shaw District such as Horace & Dickies Cafe, Cafe Nema, Bohemian Republic, Utopia Bar, The Islander, and Love Cafe. Magic Johnson sold his Starbucks on U Street long ago.

Sausages by HalfSmoke

A tray of delicious sausages by HalfSmoke on U Street

Nevertheless, visitors can still get stylish Margaritas in upscale lounges, good Soul Food, Jazz supper clubs, and Afrocentric boutiques. Black visitors will enjoy the cultural vibe at Oohs & Ahhs, Henry Soul Food, Brooklyn on U, Busboys and Poets, JoJo Restaurant & Jazz Bar, St. James Modern Caribbean, Roaming Rooster, Victory Restaurant & Lounge, Zawadi Boutique, and even the Gospel Spreading Bible Bookstore.

You’ll be pleased with the first-rate investment in these establishments for high-quality products and experience.

Don’t miss an opportunity to visit the Howard Theater supper club at 620 T Street NW. Murals of Billie Holiday and others memorialize legendary artists who performed here. Today, it features a cosmopolitan buffet of hipster entertainment, including popular Podcasters.

Cafés, bistros, boutiques, galleries, and social centers abound on U Street flowing into Florida Avenue to the east and to 14th Street NW barely to the south. On a warm day, bustling cafe culture spills over to the sidewalks.

Expect higher prices & embedded tips for meals and cocktails at these establishments to pay living wages to the workers. Even though 14th Street NW is mostly cosmopolitan, Black folks fit right in. I guess progress zig zags!

Let’s close with one pleasant surprise on 14th Street, this reassuring mural of Supreme Court Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson.

Katanji Jackson Brown, Supreme Court Justice

Katanji Jackson Brown, Supreme Court Justice; credit Soul Of America

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March On Washington

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March On Washington, 28 August 1963

March On Washington, 28 August 1963

March On Washington

The March On Washington for jobs and freedom was a turning point in the Civil Rights Movement. Dr. Martin Luther King emerged as the star, but we must always honor A. Phillip Randolph and Bayard Rustin for organizing this incredible event, which amplified global support for the Civil Rights Movement.

Many young people think the March On Washington for Jobs and Freedom was planned as a showcase for southern civil rights leaders like Dr. Martin Luther King. Not true. In fact, the 28 August 1963 civil rights event wasn’t even the first planned March on Washington.

In 1941, Asa Phillip Randolph, President of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters and Vice-President of the AFL-CIO, planned the first March on Washington to make demands for access to military and federal jobs and social freedoms.  For context, the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters was the most powerful black labor organization in America who could affect railroad service nationwide, when passenger service in overnight sleeping cars dominated long distance travel. The timing of such a march would embarrass America’s federal government and military leaders, eliminating their ability to proclaim a moral high ground for our soldiers versus Hitler in Germany and Tojo in Japan.

Towards that goal in 1941, Randolph, Walter White (NAACP), and T. Arnold Hill (National Urban League), met with President Franklin D. Roosevelt and Congressional leaders several times to press for federal jobs and social freedoms. Roosevelt persuaded Randolph call off the March for Access to Defense Jobs to prevent civil rights leaders being labeled “unpatriotic” as America was nearing entry to World War II. Randolph was severely criticized by Bayard Rustin, among others.

A. Philip Randolph in 1963

A. Philip Randolph in 1963

But in return, Randolph convinced Roosevelt to issue a 3-part Executive Order that African-Americans be admitted into job training programs in defense plants, forbade discrimination by defense contractors, and established a Fair Employment Practices Commission. That is why we can celebrate Randolph’s “Threatened” march opening roughly a million jobs to African-Americans during the war. Randolph also demanded that the U.S. military be integrated. President Roosevelt would not yield to his last demand until he saw how black soldiers performed in the war.

Roosevelt’s final position was communicated by Randolph, White and Hill to the masses. It emboldened black soldiers to bravely fight during World War II — for the victory over German and Japanese forces abroad, and a victory over discrimination at home. Optimistic black soldiers thought that government, military and public facility discrimination would not outlive another war. When President Roosevelt suddenly died in office on 12 April 1945, just months before war ended, Vice-President Truman assumed the presidency.

In summer 1945, black soldiers returned home to public facilities, transportation and restaurants just as segregated as in summer 1941. Words can not describe their degree of emotional letdown. These harsh facts were amplified for African-American government workers, who believed that our nation’s capitol would set a national example of social freedom and progress just as the war ended. It was also a tremendous letdown to defense plant workers around the nation, who anticipated a Executive Order that would immediately desegregate the military and open even more federal jobs. That would have been a powerful federal leadership signal to governors to do the same for state jobs.

Bayard Rustin & Clifford Robinson

Bayard Rustin & Clifford Robinson

Neither President Truman or Congress shared a sense of commitment to take further immediate civil rights measures, as promised to Randolph and others. After three more years of threats of a march and further negotiations, Randolph and others finally convinced President Truman to desegregate the Armed Forces in 1948. Thus, one can credit A. Phillip Randolph as the Father of Modern American Civil Rights Movement.

Randolph was also a friend and supporter of Mary Church Terrell. In 1953, Terrell launched the District of Columbia vs. John R. Thompson case that led to the U.S. Supreme court to outlaw discrimination in public restaurants. Even tax-paying, property-owning Black citizens could not dine any where in Washington, nor vote in most Southern states. Her Legal Case, followed by the Brown vs. Board of Education Case decided by the Supreme Court outlawed “Separate, But Equal” in 1954. Those legal precedents made Washington DC the focal point of the Civil Rights Movement from 1941-55.

Momentum to accelerate progress was building. Though President Dwight Eisenhower got a wimpy 1957 Civil Rights Bill passed in 1957, On 11 June 1963, President John F. Kennedy became the first president to submit a major Civil Rights Proposal to Congress. Democrats controlled Congress, but Southern Democrats (“Dixiecrats”) stalled it, even as the most shameful events of white racism were nationally televised from Alabama and Mississippi. That gave hope to the march organizers and participants. Sadly that night, another Civil Rights leader, Medgar Evers, was assassinated in Jackson, Mississippi.

But hope is not easily killed. Plans for the march went on.

Dr. Martin Luther King giving his I Have A Dream speech

Dr. Martin Luther King giving his I Have A Dream speech

The 28 August 1963 Civil Rights March on Washington made it clear to the world that 250,000 Negroes came to proclaim their rights in the so-called American democracy. The march was about more than Civil Rights and the timing was right. Few Black citizens could get federal jobs, even when overqualified. With the labor union backed A. Phillip Randolph and Bayard Rustin involved, jobs had to be addressed at the podium. Bayard was the principal organizer who can claim the lion’s share for the event going off so smoothly that there was not one reported act of violence. When you watch a video of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. giving the speech, notice how many folks surrounding him have their labor union caps on. That speaks directly to the labor connections of Randolph.

When Randolph and Rustin presented their 1963 March On Washington plan to JFK, they did it to receive his public support, not his blessing.  JFK nervously gave his support because no one had organized a march that big in Washington. Randolph and Rustin reassured him of their organizational prowess and moved forward on 28 August 1963. The rest is history.

Afterwards JFK welcomed the march organizers to the White House. Beaming like a proud father congratulated them for a well run event and memorable speeches, particularly Dr. King’s I Have A Dream, that would help him advance Civil Rights legislation. Though Dixiecrats and other sympathizers in Congress would continue to block legislation, JFK and his brother the Attorney General Robert Kennedy, helped by cracking down on KKK violence and offering federal troops for Freedom Riders who desegregated interstate transportation and more lunch counters.

March On Washington leaders at the Lincoln Memorial

March On Washington leaders at the Lincoln Memorial

Though JFK’s was assassinated on 22 November 1963, President Lyndon Johnson leveraged its halo effect, his Southern political muscle and choosing states where federal contracts would be awarded to get Civil Rights legislation enacted. Simultaneously, Randolph, Rustin, Dr. King, John Lewis and many other civil rights leaders kept bending his ear to sign the Civil Rights Act in 1964, Voting Rights Act in 1965 and Fair Housing Act of 1968. In his Great Society Program, President Johnson planned to implement job programs similar to those proposed by Randolph and Rustin. But the Vietnam War robbed the U.S. Treasury of being able to properly fund the program.

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