Villefranche & Cap-Ferrat
A Mediterranean cruise ship in the deep harbor of Villefranche-sur-Mer; (c) Pierre BEHAR/Cd’AT
Located just east of Nice and separated by Parc du Mont Boron on one side and by a pine-covered peninsula on the other side, Villefranche-sur-Mer hosts one of the deepest natural harbors on the Mediterranean Sea. In the region officially called the Alpes-Maritimes, it captivated Greek explorers centuries before the French and Italians.
When Romans conquered the region, they built some of its legendary roadways, called “corniches”, that stretch 20 miles from Nice past Monaco to Menton at the Italian border. The Basse Corniche runs just above sea level through Vlllefranche-sur-Mer. Moyenne Corniche runs a thousand feet above it. The Grand Corniche practically runs in clouds above both.
Plage des Marinieres in Villefranche-sur-Mer; (c) Alexandro Pasqualicchio/UNSPLASH
As a gateway to the Alps, Villefranche-sur-Mer city limits extend up hills that climb to 1,893 feet. Book a €30 Uber ride from Nice to Eze along the Moyenne Corniche with causal stops for breathtaking views while a local drives you. From Eze walk a mile downhill through stunning gardens to Eze Village shops, including a perfumery.
Though commonly called “Villefranche”, Villefranche-sur-Mer means “Free Town by the Sea”, derived from ville (town), franche (free), and sur-Mer (by the sea). Settlers in the 1800s made it exempt from income taxes to promote more trade and settlement by shipper. Tax-free status, great weather and great location also attracted European aristocrats decades before Monaco became popular.
Most tourists arrive by rental car, Le Grand Tour bus, taxi, Uber or regional train to Villefranche-sur-Mer Station just above Plage des Marineres, a popular beach with locals.
Dingy boats and popular cafes accent the busy Villefranche Harbor; (c) Christian Harb/UNSPLASH
The upper Mediterranean climate, spectacular hillside views, fragrant flowers, and deep Villefranche harbor hosts small cruise skippers, large cruise ship visitors, and wealthy Europeans who “winter” on the temperate Cote d’Azur.
Despite their many visitors, Villefranche and Cap-Ferrat manage keep a combined population below 10,000 and protect Old Town buildings that preserve its charming character. Note that Villefranche-sur-Mer is not to be confused with Villefranche-sur-Saône near Lyon, France.
With enticing calm in this picturesque portside village, hours seem to melt away at a dozen harbor restaurants in Villefranche. Looking at the pastel-colored housing and green & brown mountainside, it easy to see why painters have always found artistic inspiration in this special place. You can also rent a private small boat to SCUBA dive or cruise to/from Nice to view the yachts and seaside villas.
Chapelle Cocteau, honoring St. Peter and fisherman, is next to Achill’s Bistro; (c) Ambre Fraticelli/CdAT
Chapelle Saint-Pierre (Saint Peter’s Chapel) dates from the 16th century, mostly as a fishermen’s storeroom. Restored in 1957 with Jean Cocteau adding murals depicting the life of Saint Peter and local fishermen, it is now on the French Historic Sites Registry.
There’s so much more to glom over. The marina hosts the oceanographic observatory of the Pierre & Marie Curie University of Paris. The Citadel, built in 1557, now houses the Town Hall, a convention centre, three museums and an amphitheater.
Ascending from the harbor, some passageways date back to the 13th century. Église Saint-Michel (Saint Michael’s Church) in the heart of old town, was built in the 1750s in the baroque Italian-style where an early fourteenth century church once stood. Today, it houses various works of art inspired by the region.
Couple walking down an alley in the old town of Villefranche; (c) Ziyin Zeng/UNSPLASH
Though partly funded by inhumane colonial wealth, Villa Léopolda, once the hillside residence of King Leopold II of Belgium, was the most expensive house in the world. Still under tight security, you can only viewed from surrounding roads.
It’s a favorite of cruise ships since the bay reaching depths of 31,700 feet about 1 mile off the coastline. Tourism, hotels, restaurants, sailing and deep sea diving have usurped fishing and ship repair in Villefranche harbor that also hosts visiting US Navy ships. For decades, the harbor, old town, and corniches have been a natural set for Classic movies, including:
To Catch a Thief Alfred Hitchcock’s movie with Cary Grant & Grace Kelly
An Affair to Remember with Cary Grant and Deborah Kerr
Never Say Never Again Bond movie with Sean Connery
The Jewel of the Nile with Michael Douglas
Dirty Rotten Scoundrels with Steve Martin and Michael Caine
Ronin with Robert De Niro
SCUBA divers also rent small & medium boats at Villefranche Harbor; (c) Soul Of America
Cap-Ferrat, officially named “Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat”, shares a harbor with Villefranche but has the distinctly different feel of old money. More upscale seaside restaurants than small dive & cruise boats. If you start early in the same day-trip, it can perfectly pair with a Uber or taxi ride from Eze Village. Otherwise plan to spend an entire day visiting its showcase villa museum, restaurants, coastal walks and beaches.
Visitors are drawn to Cap-Ferrat for its unique blend of wealthy opulence and lightly touched natural serenity. It feels more peaceful than nearby Monaco. The crown jewel is the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, a pink Belle Époque palace opened in 1912.
Villa Ephrussi garden and museum open to the public; (c) Jardin Camille MOIRENC/Cd’AT
The five Rothschild brothers built the world’s largest private fortune in the 19th century by pioneering international banking, loans to governments, and real estate ventures in London, Paris, Frankfurt, Vienna, and Naples.
Though some find Villa Ephrussi’s interior artwork a bit over-the-top, a consensus of visitors are captivated by its exterior architecture, immaculate themed French, Japanese, and Rose gardens, and fountains that play classical music.
A nearby fan-favorite is Place David Niven, the estate of a British actor well-known for movies in the 1940s-70s. David Niven purchased his Cap-Ferrat villa from Charlie Chaplin in 1960 to trade the hectic lifestyle of Hollywood for a luxurious retreat on the French Riviera.
A view from the harbor or walk along the rocky coast illustrate why Keith Richards of The Rolling Stones and Broadway composer Andrew Lloyd Webber also bought Cap-Ferrat villas. Winston Churchill, Elizabeth Taylor, Bill Clinton, Gabrielle Union & Dwyane Wade have also vacationed in this idyllic peninsula.
A large villa swimming pool next to Sentier du Littoral coastal trail in Cap-Ferrat; (c) Romain Gal/UNSPLASH
The Sentier du Littoral is a favorite 4.5-mile rocky coastal trail through shaded pine forests that features awesome views of the turquoise Mediterranean Sea. Choose a 45-minute or 2-hour walk along the trail. Along the way you’ll explore a lighthouse secluded beaches: Plage Paloma, Plage des Fosettes & Plage de la Fosse. Each is nestled in a green hillside cove with crystal-clear water.
Closer to the Posette district of Villefranche, many local families prefer the lush vegetation and calm waters of surrounding Passable Beach. Remember to bring water shoes for the sand-pebble beaches and sturdy footwear for the coastal hike.
Cap-Ferrat Lighthouse guiding ships to harbor; (c) Pierre BEHAR/CdAT
For a charming touch of luxury, visit Saint-Jean Marina to watch super-yachts while eating fresh seafood at L’Equinoxe or Capitaine Cook waterfront restaurant. Visit the Villa Santo Sospir, famous for the frescoes painted on its walls by French artist Jean Cocteau. Don’t miss the Saint-Hospice Chapel and its massive 36-foot bronze Madonna statue for panoramic coastal views.
Côte d’Azur serenity, beauty and luxury doesn’t get better.