5 Days In Nice
The main plage (beach) of Nice in summer time; (c) Camille MOIRENC/CdAT
Nice Photos
Before visiting, I heard many people call Nice (pronounced “niece”) the aquamarine jewel of the French Riviera. This charming city in southeastern France has attracted artists and aristocrats for centuries. Beloved worldwide as a city where French sophistication & culture blend with Italian-influenced charm & history. Throw in magnificent beaches and timeless luxury to form a virtual kaleidoscope of Mediterranean tourism possibilities.
And yet it’s okay to be working poor or middle-class here. Locals say that Nissa la Bella (Nice the Beautiful) in their Niçard dialect measures up to its name. In other words, Nice has a welcome mat for all income groups. I’d start that welcome mat with a French Riviera Pass for orientation and access to the best attractions.
Precisely located on the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) in the Cote d’Azur region, at first glance, its sky blue waters made me think that someone PhotoShopped it. I could not see speck of pollution. Nice had us at “Hello.” Its beauty is legendary, though the smooth pebble rocks took some getting used to.
Old Nice (Vieux Nice) has a well-deserved place on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. While my wife slept longer to recover from the long flight, I walked up to the Tour Bellanda on the edge of Vieux Nice, halfway up 600-foot high Castle Hill.
Winded, I relied on my daughter’s description of the man-made waterfall further up. After all, there was so much to experience on the low part of Vieux Nice. I chose a care-free walk along that end of the promenade to view care-free people lounging on apartment balconies, in bar windows and astride coffeehouse patios.
Crowd of tourists atop Tour Bellanda on Castle Hill, Nice; (c) Soul Of America
Reenergized on our second day, we walked for what seemed to a mile along the Promenade des Anglais. We could have walked many more miles on the palm-lined heart of the city’s active life. Bike, skate, or exercise while overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
The city’s famous blue & white umbrellas & chairs have become a symbol of elegant or casual relaxation on the beach as well. Perhaps an under-appreciated part of Nice is its air quality. You don’t expect city air to smell so fresh. Along with the year-round moderate-to-warm temperature, the air quality tempts people to exercise outdoors on the regular for reinvigoration.
We got serious about exploring the narrow maze of winding streets, high-walled buildings, and hidden squares that speak to old Italian atmosphere in Vieux Nice. Its home to the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, a 17th-century architectural masterpiece. I stepped inside to see an avalanche of gold-plated walls. It reminded me of those seen in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil.
Excluding Mondays, Cours Saleya transforms from a busy flower & food market daily into a bustling hub of outdoor restaurant seating at night. I creatively loafed an hour with the merchants and buying gifts for family & friends. Since I began every conversation with “Bonjou, they welcomed me with equally pleasant smiles.
Tram 1 heading northeast beside Boulevard Jean Jaurès and Promenade du Paillon; (c) iAlf/iStock
Artists and filmmakers have loved Vieux Nice for decades, particularly Alfred Hitchcock. As a Classic Film buff, I was surprised that Cours Saleya flower market scene in the 1955 Hitchcock film To Catch a Thief was actually filmed on the Boulevard Jean Jaurès separating Vieux Nice and the parkway called Promenade du Paillon. He chose the boulevard because it was roomier for his equipment.
Boulevard Jean Jaurès and alleyways leading to it are still populated with artisan digs, gift shops, bistros, innumerable ice cream parlors and you guessed it — flower shops. Ever popular Tram 1 runs beside the boulevard leading to Place Massena westward and to Place Garibaldi eastward. Since my jet lag started kicking in I headed back to my resort, the remarkable Hotel du Couvent resort.
Vieux Nice also has mystical qualities, not in bad way. As I walked around, I could hear my footsteps most of the time. Even birds had pleasant rhythmic chirps, strange, but somehow calming.
On day 3, at Place Massena, my under-trained ear for French language informed me that many natives spoke an Italian-on-French dialect befitting the city’s history. The “Fit” most appealing to me, however, was seeing people of all races and languages who appeared to get along — at least better than we do in America.
From Place Massena, we took Tram 1 headed northbound, but got caught up looking at shops, cafes and Notre Dame along Avenue Jean Medecin. On return down the hill, we got off at Gare Theirs Tram stop for a short walk over to Nice train station (Gare De Nice-Ville). Our daughter arrived from Paris via TGV to Gare De Nice-Ville.
With her near-mastery of French, she impressed every waiter and clerk with proper requests in their language. Just then, I knew “We was in tall cotton“, as some of my old kinfolk used to say. Our confidence grew to explore more facets of the city.
After dropping off her luggage, we walked from our second hotel, Le Meridien Nice to Place Masséna again where Galleries Lafayette and nearby shops were must-visits for my wife and daughter.
Aerial view of Place Massena looking towards the sea; (c) Migali M/Wiki Commons
I don’t know who landscaped the checkered flooring of Place Massena, but they’ve crafted a masterpiece of wide pedestrian space, framed by grand, warm-colored architecture and ample seating. Only people, scooters, cyclists and Tram 1 run through it. Place Massena’s central fountain studded with an Apollo monument is a magnet for young lover meet-ups and picture taking. Place Massena also sports a Ferris Wheel during festive occasions.
The upscale dwellings of Cimiez district surround Cemenelum anthropological site. First century Romans settled in Cemenelum, now called Jardin des Arènes de Cimiez. After watching so many Roman movies, I kicked myself for not taking an Uber or Bolt ride later to Jardin des Arènes de Cimiez.
BTW, as I looked at the huge mountains adjacent to Nice, I thought of Hannibal crossing those Alps. If Hannibal passed through pass through the coastal mountain area of Nice in 218 BC, it would have been the fastest route to Rome. His exact route remains debated, but historians agree that he took an inland route to avoid Roman resistance.
For many years Nice Jazz Festival was hosted at Cemenelum. In 2011, it moved to the much larger Place Massena, where Nice Carnaval anchors each year.
Notre Dame of Nice at night, was built in 1860; (c) grafixartphoto-PEXELS
Downsides, you might ask?
Excluding Galleries Lafayette, Place Massena has many tourist trap cafes and gift shops. So I recommend visiting Place Massena, but dining in adjacent Vieux Nice or Carre d’Or that give more value for the dollar. Also note that this highly walkable and Tram-ridable city invites lines of tourists to visit many of same cafes, shops and attractions. And that’s before the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art reopens in 2027 after a major upgrade.
Speaking of transportation, this small metro area features 3 Tram lines, Le Grand Tour open-top tourbuses, frequent local buses and car rentals, if you choose. There are no hassles to reach any major attraction in Nice. The only time we needed a Taxi/Uber/Bolt ride was airport to central Nice and to handle our 3-person ride with luggage from Nice to Cannes.
On day 4, I had to see the maritime side of Nice in Port Lympia. From small fishing boats to multi-million dollar yachts, the scent of seafood and fishing boats in the harbor compete for your attention. Your palette is amply rewarded.
The Port Lymoia vibe is definitely laid back. In general, waiters don’t present your check early. So remember to say “L’addition s’il vous plaît” (pronounced lah-dee-syohn seel voo pleh) to politely request the bill when you are ready.
Entry to N La Plage Restaurant across from Le Negresco Hotel; (c) Jeannette Ceja/SoulOfAmerica
Along the way, I noticed a World War II monument carved into the hillside. It reminded me of granddad who served with the French in World War I because Black American soldiers could not serve in battle beside White American soldiers. He received a distinguished service award from the French.
Nearby in the Port Lympia district of Nice, I noticed distinctive multi-level residential buildings Their fine craftsmanship stood out and held up for 125-150 years and framed the west side of Port Lympia. Making our way to along port terminus we peeked multi-million dollar yachts, a lighthouse, and medium-size day cruise ships. The big multi-day cruises had already departed earlier.
Then I noticed the Tram 2 terminus surround by artwork and a row of restaurants/bistros flanking the east side of Port Lympia. About that time my wife was ready for Italian cuisine. We stopped at GiGi’s. That wise decision rewarded us with seafood, cheese, pasta and sauces to celebrate without busting the budget.
Shrimp with parmesan cheese and pasta at GiGi’s Restaurant; (c) Soul Of America
We added side trips to Monaco, Villefranche Sur Mer and Antibes to our journey. While my wife and daughter went other beach in Antibes, I took Le Grand Tour open-top bus for a cycle around the city. In hindsight, I wish I did it the 1st day to get an overview before deeper dives into 4 districts.
That aid, Monaco was only 15-minute train ride to Monaco. Villefranche sur Mer is a 15-25-minute bus ride from any hotel along Promenade des Anglais. Near the train station you can take 30-minute bus ride uphill to Eze for eye-candy views of Cote d’Azur. Did I fail to mention a short Uber ride to the Rothschild Museum & Garden in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat?
Either choice, Nice is perfect for day trips while returning to a base hotel.
The night before leaving this delightfully charming city, we enjoyed dinner at Le Latitude, rooftop restaurant at Le Meridien Nice Hotel. Every visitor is welcome, but reservations are advised for a inventive cocktails and exquisite seafood on the patio. It doesn’t get much better than fine dining at moonlight over the Mediterranean Sea with loved ones.
Thomas Dorsey, early morning on Rue Rosetti in Vieuw Nice; (c) Soul Of America
In France, people will remind you that “La vie est belle” for Life is good. You may not see that in my early morning selfie, but I assure you that I felt La vie est belle in Nice.
Though 5 days was not enough, I will never remember every shop, bistro historic place we visited or conversation with locals. But I will always remember how Nice made me feel. It’s Must-Return in book.