Hindu Goddess statue in a Mumbai Neighborhood

A colorful Hindu Goddess statue in Mumbai wearing a Sonika Sari; credit Agarwal

A Mumbai Neighborhood

My boyfriend and I spent the last two days on our own, investigating the neighborhood near the hotel. We passed concrete apartment buildings with clothes drying on the balconies, small stores selling electronics and blaring pop songs in Hindi, complexes that looked like corporate offices and churches that looked like European cathedrals.

We smelled Puri, an Indian bread, sizzling in the hot oil of street carts and incense burning from inside modest homes. We crossed a grassy area the size of three football fields and watched hundreds of boys run and shout while playing cricket. In a bustling commercial district, we braved Mumbai traffic to cross a busy street with no intersection.

With cars zooming, horns honking, drivers shouting, motorcycles revving, and cows meandering (yes, cows!), it felt as if we were in a video game.

Lady dressed for an Indian celebration

Lady biker dressed for an Indian celebration; credit Rosario Fernandes

We also visited Victoria Station, the busiest railway station in India, and the site of a famous chase scene at the end of “Slumdog Millionaire.” Both its style of architecture and its name come from Queen Victoria, who reigned Great Britain from 1837 to 1901. Stately and imposing with a series of turrets, pointed arches, tiles, and brass railings, it, too, reminded me of a residence for royalty. Inside was a cavernous space through which chugged trains for both long-distance and commuter journeys.

The station was near our hotel, and we passed it often. One afternoon when we were both wearing tank tops and shorts, we walked in that direction just as hundreds of commuters – mostly men – were leaving the building to go home. Wide-eyed with furrowed brows, they gawked at me open-mouthed. I felt as if I was being groped with their eyes. I learned that in much of India, I needed to cover my arms and legs to respect the local customs.

On a Monday morning, we walked to the Gateway of India for a ferry to Elephanta Island, where a network of cave temples contains elaborate sculptures carved from stone. The caves date back to about the 5th century. Unfortunately, they were closed on Mondays. We boarded a ferry anyway and realized that the most scenic view of the Gateway and Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is from the water.

An hour later, we disembarked and spent the afternoon hiking Elephanta’s hilly trails, finding underground tunnels, and trying to take photos of gray monkeys that kept scampering outside of our viewfinders.

In the late afternoon, we jumped in a cab and headed to Chowpatty Beach, a popular festival-like setting with street vendors and concession stands. This Mumbai Neighborhood is usually packed with families, we enjoyed it on a Monday evening without the crowds. We sampled a snack called Bhel Puri – puffed rice, vegetables, and a tangy tamarind sauce – for the first time and sought it out all over India.

After Chowpatty Beach, we decided to walk the two miles back to the hotel along Marine Drive. The boulevard hugs the coast in a curve known as the Queen’s Necklace; at night, when the street lights switch on, it looks like a glittering necklace of diamonds. Like the many young couples we encountered, we strolled hand-in-hand, enjoying one of the most romantic sights of the city.

Between wandering on our own and the wonderful hospitality of our new Mumbai friends, we saw a lot in three days. And I took time during each experience to stop…and think about its significance. Too bad we could only scratch the surface of the fourth most populous city in the world.

We owe a debt of gratitude to Ankush, Anjali, Manasi, Nikhil, and the Deshpandes for allowing us to see a small part of Mumbai in such style. We could not have envisioned a more perfect day of sightseeing. Their warmth and generosity, we learned throughout our travels in India, are natural characteristics of citizens on this continent.

Ankush explained that “We Indians believe in ‘Atithi devo Bhava’ meaning our guests are God for us. And if we can make our guests happy, we believe God will be happy with us.”

Ankush Manasi & Nikhil at Status Restaurant

Ankush, Manasi & Nikhil at Status Restaurant, Mumbai; (c) Soul Of America

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