Capoiera martial artists practicing at the beach
credit Embratur

    Salvador, a historic and culturally rich city in the state of Bahia, is a must visit directly or traveling from Rio de Janeiro.  The Portuguese first imported African slaves to this part of Bahia in the early 1500s.  Sharing ancestry and a history of African slave importation combined with a large dash of Native Americans, produces a lot of people who look like kinfolk.  Like Brazilians, African Americans don't just hear Samba music and taste their derivative African dishes, we feel it.  You should also discover soulful Carnaval de Rua Salvador -- at more affordable hotel rates than Carnaval Rio de Janeiro!

    In 2003, Brazil elected a populist president who named African Brazilian and Native-American Brazilian cabinet members, many from Bahia.  Thus, opportunities are expanding for Afro-Brazilians in Salvador.  Hence, the Pelourinho cultural, shopping and dining district seems more alive than ever.  Pelourinho is the most important historical center of colonial architecture in Latin America.  It contains the last slave market in Brazil; the First African Church in the new world, built in 1704; art galleries, souvenirs shops and various other important historical landmarks.  Touring this district gives you a good prospective of the African influence in the building of Brazil. 

    OLODUM, an internationally acclaimed Afro-Brazilian cultural dance band from Bahia, takes their name from an abbreviation of Olodumaré, the Yoruba expression for "God of all gods."  More than a band, but also NGO engaged in many social and educational projects.  The group has served as a backbone for the Black community throughout Bahia and is a crucial part of the Black Movement “movimento Negro” in Brasil.  You can also take samba classes at their casa in Pelourinho. 

    The Yaba Sisters make it easy and affordable for you to purchase fantastic jewels.  Here's a tip, save most of your duty free limit to purchase gems with them -- you'll be glad you did.  Ask you driver to take you to the Handicraft Market, its the largest of its type in northern Brazil.  The feeling may come over you to purchase hand-made leather, ceramics, shell and wood crafts. 

    The state of Bahia also has a larger percentage of Afro-Brazilians who practice Capoeira (African) martial arts.  So don't be surprised to see their local performances, sometimes free,  frequently advertised.  Another common sight is the Afro-Brazilian Baianas in their traditional white balloon dresses.  and sometimes serving acarajé.  White represents the color of Iansã, goddess of the wind.  Acarajé is a deep-fried bread made from mashed brown beans with the skins have been removed.  The mash is deep fried in dendé oil.  Acarajés are usually accompanied by camarão (small sundried shrimp), pimenta (hot pepper sauce), vatapá (a paste made from sundried shrimp, peanuts, cashews, and coconut milk), caruru (okra stew), and/or a salad.  Often, you'll see indoor and outdoor tables spread with a spicy and exotic assortment of Bahia's version of this fast-food.  Many in the region still follow the religious practice of Candomblé, which has roots in West Africa. The African-influence restaurants hold their own with Rio too. 

    Traveling from Pelhourinho along Centenery Avenue, stop for a photo of the beautiful Statues of the Orishas. These distinctive statues represent the deities of the Candomble Religion and stand in the middle of a peaceful lake.  Not far away, the Good End Church, known by the locals as "Oxala's Church", is the center for the connection between African religions and Catholicism.
   
    Of all the things one sees, hears, and tastes in Salvador, too things stand out compared to anything you have seen in America.  The first big thing is no surprise.  Given soccer or football as its called here, is the national sport, you see brothers everywhere playing the sport wit the same verve and creativity as we play basketball and (American) football.  You'll love seeing them break off fierce crossover moves with their feet.

    The second quixotic thing is Black surfers.  Okay, maybe you've seen an exception or two in Florida, but believe me -- they are exceptions.  Here you can see legions of carved young brothers doing rad moves on surf boards and boogie boards off Barra Beach.  You'll think its the Twilight Zone or an alternate universe.  They have a beach culture as distinctive as you'll find in Southern California.

    With greater income and travel experience, African American destination choices are spreading beyond domestic shores.  Lower costs and increasing numbers of flights are making Salvador more convenient to reach than ever.  If you can't make it here for Carnaval, the second best time is New Year’s Eve for an only-in-Brazil celebration at the beach.  Our African roots inspire people tossing of flowers in the waves as the new year approaches.

     Another great time to visit is August during The Sisters of the Boa Morte (The Sisterhood of the Good Death) Festival in the back-bay city of Cachoeira.  The sisters originated in Salvador at a time when Blacks were denied access to Catholic ceremonies. Consequently, religious rituals combining Catholic and Candomble practices were carried out in secret.  Soon, several churches practiced this combination of religions.  As time passed, The Sisterhood of the Good Death was the only one to survive. Their annual festival, attended by followers from around the world, is a marvelous spectacle led by the conspicuous gold filigree and coral jewelry-descked Sisters. The Sisterhood of the Good Death preserve the celebration of the Saints and Orixas, a characteristic of Afro-Brazilian syncretism, once guarded in secrecy and taboos.  Contact one of these tour guides to arrange a visit.