Los Angeles has spawned a number of Black chef-owners leading a type of nouveau cuisine best described as "California Soul Food." They each share a common thread in their background -- studied at a famous American culinary institute and spent time as chefs in France or studying French cuisine, but they never forget their Soul Food roots. From that foundation their experiences vary between working up the ladder to become executive chef for a large hospitality chain or working their way up to executive chef at top restaurants on the East Coast or West Coast.

    As expected from such backgrounds, this emerging cuisine has a lighter touch than traditional Soul Food, but nonetheless stimulates your taste buds for more. For example, you taste extra spices in the fried chicken, cornbread and greens with less grease. Some dishes taste so good that guests sing praises to the chef. And like any cuisine with partial French roots, the smaller servings are coupled with an inspiring presentation.

    Robert Gadsby of Noe might be the most experienced in preparing this nouveau cuisine. He was owner-chef of other critically well-received restaurants in LA before opening Noe downtown. Throughout most of the 1990s, Brad Johnson had celebrity financial backers when he was owner-chef of beloved Georgia’s Restaurant. Eddie Murphy and Denzel Washington were part owners. Denzel’s wife sang at the piano on numerous occasions. Anyone who dined at Georgia’s could attest to the fabulous tasting California Soul Food and its ultra-chic setting on trend setting Melrose Avenue. Though reasons for the restaurant’s demise are murky, Brad resurfaced as erstwhile owner of Windows restaurant in the dynamic South Park district of Downtown.

    For a time Reign, owned by NFL football player Keyshawn Johnson, had the best chance of filling the void left by Georgia’s. But like many restaurants after few years, no matter who backs them, it suffered a quick demise. The same for Phillip Shaw of P. Shaw’s and G. Garvin’s, both closed now. Though Gavin appears to be doing okay with his TV program. The question now is ... who will next lead the charge defining how much of upscale Black La dines.