Perhaps you've heard the old phrase "The coldest day I ever experienced was a summer in San Francisco". For me, nothing was further from the truth. Yes there were many days of rolling fog, misty air and temperatures between 62 and 72 degrees. But they seemed a perfect compliment to the sound of cable car bells ringing with excitement, the scent of fresh Dungeness crabs, sourdough bread, a glass of Napa Valley wine, and astounding views of the San Francisco Bay filled with all manner of pleasureboats.

   From one vantage point, many hills of wealthy distinction. From another vantage point, a broad expanse featuring shops and boutiques for all budgets and fashionistas. From yet another vantage point, the multi-faceted Embarcadero waterfront manages to convey both calmness and exuberance. That San Francisco enjoys vibrant ethnic communities from all nationalities living in close proximity is tribute to equal parts geography, laws and luck. This "concentrated human diversity" engenders a spirit of philanthropy and an unmatched joy of life. At only 49 square miles and surrounded on three sides by water, San Francisco may be the smallest city on earth to boast of six world-class museums, a dozen major performing art venues, a trendsetting baseball stadium and more restaurant seats than residents. A trite smug about its wealth at times, but ever caring for the least among us, San Francisco held many treasures in four perfect days of July.

   Our children were equally absorbed in the latest ground-breaking exhibits at a science museum, a Dutch windmill and American buffalo taking pause in Golden Gate Park. Artisans face-painting, arcades, a vintage carousel ride and young brothers break-dancing at Fisherman's Wharf , shopping at Niketown, made this a "Dad, I'm glad we came here" vacation. And that was before visiting the awe-inspiring Exploratorium children's science museum. My kids couldn't get enough of those activities, so we didn't have enough time to visit the notable San Francisco Zoo or vicariously browse the kite-fliers at Marina Green or cruise in GPS-navigated GO Cars around town.

CitySightseeing across the Golden Gate Bridge

   The slight morning chill of 60 degrees and marine layer of clouds had given way to 70 degrees and clear blue skies by late morning. From the jukebox-shaped Marriott San Francisco, we walked half a block to Market Street. Barely a minute passed before a vintage streetcar arrived with sign titled "Fisherman's Wharf-Embarcadero." Using our CityPass, we took the vintage streetcar towards the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero. In our "Must Go Faster World" traveling under 10 mph was just the tonic to slow down and appreciate the fine detail of life in the city. It was even better appreciated when I learned that we were riding an original "Streetcar Named Desire" -- traded from New Orleans to San Francisco in exchange for a cable car. Desire took us to our next mode of transportation in Fisherman's Wharf.

   From Fisherman's Wharf, an open-top City Sightseeing tour bus awaited its passengers for an overview of San Francisco attractions. Seeing the steering wheel on the right side and stairs to the upper deck of these British imports, immediately strikes Americans as odd. For me it was part of the quirkiness that accented the knowledge of the tour guide on board and the Hop On-Hop Off nature of the tour. My wife enjoyed this tour best for its overview of the city's attractions. In fact, City Sightseeing tours cover every major attraction from the Embarcadero to Ocean Beach and across the Golden Gate Bridge. Given you can get on and off all day, the question is, how long do you want to ride? If you don't like driving up and down hills a tour bus or cable car ride is essential.

   After briefly dabbling in Fisherman's wharf, we closed the first day with dinner at Mel's Diner catecorner from the Marriott Hotel followed by a family swim in the Marriott indoor swimming pool. The kids closed own the down the pool at 11PM. I snuck up to the 39th floor for a Cabernet tilted view at the night-lit city from the View Lounge.

Union Square, the heart of San Francisco's shopping district

   My son and I walked a few steps to Metreon, a family fun center in transition that maintains a small cafe for breakfast treats and an all-important attraction to boys -- a well-stocked arcade. Safely depositing him at the arcade, I slipped away to patrol Yerba Buena Gardens and the culturally engaging Museum of the African Diaspora. Glad I did. Two hours later, my son and I emerged ready to team with my wife and daughter. We built up a palpable sense of anticipation to visit the California Academy of Science in Golden Gate Park.

   Recently reopened after a upgrade costing well over $100 million, California Academy of Science is bound to trend-set future museums with its design for its super-efficient energy use, global warming exhibit, multi-tiered rainforest, planetarium, and living green roof that undulates like a camel's back. I recommend 4 hours plus an hour in between for lunch to partake of its wonders. And don't worry about parking. There's plenty of spaces under the museum as as well as in the park. Next we glanced at the Conservatory, Japanese Tea Garden, Stow Lake, soccer fields, horse stables, and a real Dutch windmill in Golden Gate Park. All the while we saw joggers, skaters, bikers and picnics everywhere. The western boundary of the park led us to Ocean Beach, where an unintended left turn took us down to the zoo. Nonetheless, sweeping Pacific Ocean vistas and sand dunes made our happenstance journey worthwhile. Doubling back we stopped at the Cliff House complete with an overlook of the Sutro Bath Ruins. A diagram in the Cliff House gift shop gave ample illustration of that 19th century bathhouse marvel and day trip destination for San Franciscans before it burned down - several times!

   "Dad, can we visit the Niketown we saw on the bus tour yesterday?" Of course I said, as we walked a few blocks to Union Square, the heart of San Francisco's shopping district. Before arriving at our target destination, we gauged the many artisans, tiered landscaping, flower vendors, a tall monument and well-tended cafe in Union Square. The setting made me recall a festive plaza in Paris. If not for my son dragging us across the street, we could have stayed there until nightfall. The 5-story Niketown seemed like its own attraction, ablaze with every type Jordan, Tiger, Kobe, LeBron, Beckham and Armstrong sports apparel item on earth. Sometime later with a lighter wallet, we strutted down towards Market Street where a flagship Apple Store caught our eye. Maybe it was my imagination, but the clerks here seem to be a cut above. They welcomed every question I hurled at them only to be answered with verve and confidence. No wonder Apple's doing so well. When we left that night, it was pretty cool to see the backlit Apple sign out front.

   That night we dined at Fourth Street Grill, then I let the wife and kids go swimming while I caught up with an old friend in the Marriott lobby. A spacious lobby, with comfy lounge chairs and excellent selection of beers and wine made the hours pass quickly before I joined the family in the pool.

Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco

   In the morning, I ordered a latte then walked to Market & Powell Streets only to notice a half block long line waiting to board the next cable car. I love cable cars, but for the life of me, I couldn't see waiting 45 minutes to board one. Nor should you. Walk 4-5 blocks up Powell Street to California Street. There, some patrons get off to visit Chinatown or Russian Hill, so you can board quickly or catch a less crowded California Street cable car. Either way you get great views. Passing on that tip for now, I walked towards the Civic Center to peruse its Farmers Market for organic fruit by local farmers. Having addressed my health food penchant, I was free to stop at the nearby Brenda's French Soul Food. Now that's a line I'll wait at.

   Rushing back to the hotel, I picked up my jolly band of journeymen, otherwise called family. We headed to Ghiardelli Square by way of vintage street car from Milan to Fisherman's Wharf. Another short walk landed us at that fabulous McCormick & Kuletos restaurant at Ghiardelli Square. The affable Chef Liz Ozanich served us oysters on a half shell, lobster thermidor and my favorite, Dungeness crab served fresh and cold.  The delectable cuisine and sparkling wait service by a Leonardo Decaprio look-alike were only matched the views. Alcatraz, historical ships, pleasure craft and daily swimmers fill the eye and tease the mind.  Fortunately for us, the tease wouldn't last long as we headed to Red & White Ferry Terminal at Pier 43 1/2. Our cruise was both quick to board and slow to complete - 90 minutes well spent. Audiophones gave us the background on everything we were seeing close-up in the San Francisco Bay from the Marina Green, Fort Point, Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Treasure Island and then back to Fisherman's Wharf. Back on land, we sauntered to the the Fisherman's Wharf Wax Museum and got sucked into the many surrounding tourist trap gift shops.

   Since our kids can never get enough shellfish, for dinner we made our way to The Crab House on Pier 39. Okay, I won't blame it on the kids. When you can get shellfish this good, just manufacture an excuse to dine as often a possible in Fisherman's Wharf. This time our crab legs were "boiled to perfection" according to my son, the crab specialist. For me the mussels were the joint. Turning my back and chatting with the waiter for a moment or two was all it took. Only two mussels remained, but guilty smiles lasted around our table. Everyone was quick to offer me something from their plate. Needless to say, the Crab House was another delicious San Francisco chapter in the book of Memorable Dining Experiences.

   After dinner my kids grew fins again, but this time Daddy was with them back at the Marriott pool.

The View Lounge in the San Francisco Marriott

    By now you figured out that my better half enjoyed the sound soother, dark shades and no alarms to disturb her late morning rise. She also recharged her batteries with each bay view from the 24th floor suite in the Marriott. Knowing the drill, I convinced my son to join me for a morning venture to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. The lobby said airy, the galleries said cool and the sculpture garden said way cool. Having satisfied my culture bug for the day, we headed back to pick up our other half for brunch.

   Driving in San Francisco isn't bad if you don't get vertigo on the steep streets. How steep? In some cases, you need stairs to walk up and down the street. Height and steepness are key ingredients for hills that provide a trifecta of "stay with you for a lifetime" vistas of the Bay, Golden Gate and Ocean. Its also a truism that San Francisco promises discovery at every turn, even to long time residents who visit other parts of town. For the latter reason I decided to drive the last day without a schedule or agenda. Just see where the day takes me.

   The Crookest Street in the World is always pleasing to the eye. South of Market felt hip with the residue of so many Dot.com companies who failed and the handful who succeeded. Mission District danced to a Latin flavor. Nob Hill smelled like old money and Russian Hill was nearly as elegant. Union Street competes with South Beach for most avant garde. Haight-Ashbury seemed caught in a 1970s time warp. Speaking of time ... hours passed. Then we set our path for the upscale Soul Food creations served at 1300 on Fillmore -- the new soulful star of the city. Freshly made cornbread muffins were the appetite starters. But the precisely seasoned shrimp grits were slap yo' momma good! The owner insisted that we sample their gourmet deserts. The shrimp grits removed any will to argue. And thank you for the same owners having the cultural presence to create a Fillmore Heritage Wall to remind every visitor of the days when Billy Holiday, Sammy Davis, Jr., Duke Ellington, Marvin Gaye and other great entertainers were regulars in the Fillmore District.

We offer a special acknowledgement to San Francisco Marriott for helping to make this article possible.